RECESSIM - User contributions [en]

Literature

2023-08-03T05:30:10Z

Shawnerz: /* Resource Index */

Books, Journals, Magazines, Datasheets and all other literature related to reverse engineering is welcome here. The book pictured is the bound edition of a portion of the PDF's available in the PoC||GTFO section.[[File:POCorGTFO.jpg|thumb|<nowiki>Bound edition of PoC||GTFO, Proof of Concept OR Get The Fuck Out.</nowiki>]]

==Resource Index==

===Books and Magazines===
[[PoCorGTFO|PoC||GTFO]] - International Journal of Proof-of-Concept or Get The Fuck Out (Mirror)

[https://wiki.recessim.com/w/images/0/01/HackingTheXbox_Free.pdf Hacking the Xbox] - An Introduction to Reverse Engineering by Andrew "bunnie" Huang

[https://nostarch.com/hardwarehackerpaperback The Hardware Hacker] - Manufacturing and Open Hardware by Andrew "bunnie" Huang

===Datasheets===
[https://www.docin.com/ DOCin] - Chinese datasheet and other documents website

===On-line Education===
[http://security.cs.rpi.edu/courses/hwre-spring2014/ CSCI 4974 / 6974 Hardware Reverse Engineering] - Good slide decks on reverse engineering hardware at all levels, IC to PCB.

[https://github.com/mytechnotalent/Reverse-Engineering-Tutorial Reverse Engineering Tutorial] - A comprehensive reverse engineering tutorial covering x86, x64, 32-bit ARM & 64-bit ARM architectures.

===800 MHz AMPS Documentation===
[https://wiki.recessim.com/view/File:Cellular_Telephone_Bible_With_SIDs.txt The Cellular Telephone Bible by Mike Larsen (1997)] Unlock codes and programming procedures of early 800 MHz analog AMPS cellular phones. This document also contains the system IDs (SID) of the 800 MHz analog service providers.

Literature

2023-08-03T05:25:44Z

Shawnerz: /* Resource Index */

Books, Journals, Magazines, Datasheets and all other literature related to reverse engineering is welcome here. The book pictured is the bound edition of a portion of the PDF's available in the PoC||GTFO section.[[File:POCorGTFO.jpg|thumb|<nowiki>Bound edition of PoC||GTFO, Proof of Concept OR Get The Fuck Out.</nowiki>]]

==Resource Index==

===Books and Magazines===
[[PoCorGTFO|PoC||GTFO]] - International Journal of Proof-of-Concept or Get The Fuck Out (Mirror)

[https://wiki.recessim.com/w/images/0/01/HackingTheXbox_Free.pdf Hacking the Xbox] - An Introduction to Reverse Engineering by Andrew "bunnie" Huang

[https://nostarch.com/hardwarehackerpaperback The Hardware Hacker] - Manufacturing and Open Hardware by Andrew "bunnie" Huang

===Datasheets===
[https://www.docin.com/ DOCin] - Chinese datasheet and other documents website

===On-line Education===
[http://security.cs.rpi.edu/courses/hwre-spring2014/ CSCI 4974 / 6974 Hardware Reverse Engineering] - Good slide decks on reverse engineering hardware at all levels, IC to PCB.

[https://github.com/mytechnotalent/Reverse-Engineering-Tutorial Reverse Engineering Tutorial] - A comprehensive reverse engineering tutorial covering x86, x64, 32-bit ARM & 64-bit ARM architectures.

===800 MHz AMPS Documentation===
[https://wiki.recessim.com/view/File:Cellular_Telephone_Bible_With_SIDs.txt|The Cellular Telephone Bible by Mike Larsen (1997)] Unlock codes and programming procedures of early 800 MHz analog AMPS cellular phones. This document also contains the system IDs (SID) of the 800 MHz analog service providers.

File:Cellular Telephone Bible With SIDs.txt

2023-08-03T05:05:06Z

Shawnerz: The Cellular Telephone Bible from January 1997. This "Bible" was the "go to" source book for programming and hacking the analog AMPS cellular telephones from the early to late 1990's. This text document has the unlock codes for many of the analog phones as well as the system ID's (SID) of the major carriers of the day.

== Summary ==
The Cellular Telephone Bible from January 1997.
This "Bible" was the "go to" source book for programming and hacking the analog AMPS cellular telephones from the early to late 1990's. This text document has the unlock codes for many of the analog phones as well as the system ID's (SID) of the major carriers of the day.

Kobalt KRC 40-06

2023-08-02T04:24:41Z

Shawnerz: /* Autopsy */

==Background==
A lightning bolt hit a pole near my house and I lost several electronic items. One of them was my Kobalt KRC 40-06 that recharges the battery for my Kobalt (Lowes) string trimmer and leaf blower. Rather than throw it in the landfill and buy another, I decided to repair it and return it to action. It was easier said than done, but I was successful.
The circuits are not too complex. The broad-stroke overview of the circuit is 120VAC is applied through a fuse, filtering, a common-mode choke, and a full-wave bridge rectifier, where it is converted to 172 VDC. The voltage is applied to the TOP386EG switcher that applies its voltage to the transformer. On the output side of the transformer, AC is then rectified through the MBR2560CT as well as applied to the logic monitoring the voltages and charge levels. The LTV-817B optocoupler provides feedback that controls the drive of the TOP386EG.

The voltage levels were taken with no load. In other words, the charger was not charging a battery.

The board has a considerable amount of RTV applied and the component side is conformal coated.

“I really like your soldering”, said no one, ever! So feel free to ridicule my soldering. In my defense, the pictures were taken prior to clean up of the board. If nothing else, the pictures will provide comedic relief. Honestly, looking at this pictures makes me want to break out Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. Trust me, the board was cleaned up and re-conformal coated.

==Needed Tools==

*3mm or 7/64ths hex head driver
*Multimeter. Knowing how the diode function differs from the resistance function of the meter is helpful.
*X-Acto knife (or similar) to scrape through the conformal coating
*Soldering iron with flux and solder. Having two irons is helpful when removing surface mount devices (SMD)

==Disassembly==
With a flat-blade screwdriver, remove the rubber feet. This reveals 3mm/7-64th hex head screws. Remove them. The bottom should be able to to be separated from the unit to reveal the printed circuit board (PCB). The PCB is pressure fit in to the house and should be able to be removed.

==Troubleshooting==
If the input fuse has blown, the problem is probably in the input side. Perhaps the 180 uF/250V capacitor shorted. Perhaps the inductor, bridge rectifier diode pack shorted.

<big>**WARNING**</big>

120 VAC and up to 175 volts DC are present on the input side of the charger circuit. Under a bad set of circumstances, this could be lethal.

*Proceed at your own risk!*

If you're comfortable proceeding, then plug in to AC power. With the multimeter, look for the DC voltages indicated in the pictures.

==Autopsy==
Judging by the failed components, here is a guess as how my charger failed:

My house did not take a direct hit from the lightning bolt. If so, I’d have visible damage and many more items would have been destroyed. The charger was in the garage. My guess is the plasma field of the lightning caused the MBR2560CT to internally short. This caused maximum drive current to be sourced by the TOP368EG on the input side. Diode US1M on the right side of the picture was replaced as a part of the troubleshooting effort, but was probably good. The 3.15 amp input fuse did not blow and is still functioning.
Perhaps yours failed in a similar manner.

All of the parts are available from Mouser https://www.mouser.com/
<gallery>
Kobalt LI Ion Charger 1.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Underside
Kobalt LI Ion Charger 2.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Topside
</gallery>

Talk:Kobalt KRC 40-06

2023-08-02T04:06:24Z

Shawnerz:

I had reached a dead end and I wanted a "known good" charger to compare readings against. I ordered another charger from eBay. It was advertised as "Works great!"

It did not work. I took it apart and it was in worse shape than my charger. Either battery electrolyte or water had gotten in to the charger and eaten the PCB traces and several components. It looked like some sort of insect infestation had occurred as well.
Amazingly, I managed to repair it and get it working! I had to use a few components I had in my shop, but it works!
Knowing the repair work that needed to be done, I would not feel comfortable selling either one. But I guess I have two working chargers.

==Note==
Even with the left side USM1 diode internally shorted, the charger still worked charged my battery twice.

[[File:2 bad chargers.jpg|thumb|Both broken chargers]]
<gallery>
2 bad chargers.jpg|thumb|Both broken chargers
2 working chargers.jpg|thumb|Both working chargers
</gallery>

File:2 working chargers.jpg

2023-08-02T03:55:30Z

Shawnerz: The charger on the left is the eBay charger after repair of the traces and replacing faulty components. I had not cleaned the bottom, RTV-ed, or conformal coated the PCB yet.

== Summary ==
The charger on the left is the eBay charger after repair of the traces and replacing faulty components. I had not cleaned the bottom, RTV-ed, or conformal coated the PCB yet.

File:2 bad chargers.jpg

2023-08-02T03:52:28Z

Shawnerz: /* Summary */

== Summary ==
2 Bad chargers. The corroded charger on the right arrived from an eBay seller saying, "Works great!"

File:2 bad chargers.jpg

2023-08-02T03:51:34Z

Shawnerz: 2 Bad chargers

== Summary ==
2 Bad chargers

Talk:Kobalt KRC 40-06

2023-08-02T03:48:37Z

Shawnerz: Backstory

I ordered another charger from eBay. I had reached a dead end and I wanted a "known good" charger to compare readings against. It was advertised as "Works great!"

It did not work. I took it apart and it was in worse shape than my charger. Either battery electrolyte or water had gotten in to the charger and eaten the PCB traces and several components.
Amazingly, I managed to repair it and get it working! I had to use a few components I had in my shop, but it works!

Kobalt KRC 40-06

2023-08-02T03:39:54Z

Shawnerz: /* Needed Tools */

==Background==
A lightning bolt hit a pole near my house and I lost several electronic items. One of them was my Kobalt KRC 40-06 that recharges the battery for my Kobalt (Lowes) string trimmer and leaf blower. Rather than throw it in the landfill and buy another, I decided to repair it and return it to action. It was easier said than done, but I was successful.
The circuits are not too complex. The broad-stroke overview of the circuit is 120VAC is applied through a fuse, filtering, a common-mode choke, and a full-wave bridge rectifier, where it is converted to 172 VDC. The voltage is applied to the TOP386EG switcher that applies its voltage to the transformer. On the output side of the transformer, AC is then rectified through the MBR2560CT as well as applied to the logic monitoring the voltages and charge levels. The LTV-817B optocoupler provides feedback that controls the drive of the TOP386EG.

The voltage levels were taken with no load. In other words, the charger was not charging a battery.

The board has a considerable amount of RTV applied and the component side is conformal coated.

“I really like your soldering”, said no one, ever! So feel free to ridicule my soldering. In my defense, the pictures were taken prior to clean up of the board. If nothing else, the pictures will provide comedic relief. Honestly, looking at this pictures makes me want to break out Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. Trust me, the board was cleaned up and re-conformal coated.

==Needed Tools==

*3mm or 7/64ths hex head driver
*Multimeter. Knowing how the diode function differs from the resistance function of the meter is helpful.
*X-Acto knife (or similar) to scrape through the conformal coating
*Soldering iron with flux and solder. Having two irons is helpful when removing surface mount devices (SMD)

==Disassembly==
With a flat-blade screwdriver, remove the rubber feet. This reveals 3mm/7-64th hex head screws. Remove them. The bottom should be able to to be separated from the unit to reveal the printed circuit board (PCB). The PCB is pressure fit in to the house and should be able to be removed.

==Troubleshooting==
If the input fuse has blown, the problem is probably in the input side. Perhaps the 180 uF/250V capacitor shorted. Perhaps the inductor, bridge rectifier diode pack shorted.

<big>**WARNING**</big>

120 VAC and up to 175 volts DC are present on the input side of the charger circuit. Under a bad set of circumstances, this could be lethal.

*Proceed at your own risk!*

If you're comfortable proceeding, then plug in to AC power. With the multimeter, look for the DC voltages indicated in the pictures.

==Autopsy==
Judging by the failed components, here is a guess as how my charger failed:

My house did not take a direct hit from the lightning bolt. If so, I’d have visible damage and many more items would have been destroyed. The charger was in the garage. My guess is the plasma field of the lightning caused the MBR2560CT to internally short. This caused maximum drive current to be sourced by the TOP368EG on the input side. Diode US1M on the right side of the picture was replaced as a part of the troubleshooting effort, but was probably good. The 3.15 amp input fuse did not blow and is still functioning.
Perhaps yours failed in a similar manner.

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 1.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 underside]]

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 2.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Topside]]

All of the parts are available from Mouser https://www.mouser.com/

Kobalt KRC 40-06

2023-08-02T03:28:29Z

Shawnerz: /* Needed Tools */

== Background ==
A lightning bolt hit a pole near my house and I lost several electronic items. One of them was my Kobalt KRC 40-06 that recharges the battery for my Kobalt (Lowes) string trimmer and leaf blower. Rather than throw it in the landfill and buy another, I decided to repair it and return it to action. It was easier said than done, but I was successful.
The circuits are not too complex. The broad-stroke overview of the circuit is 120VAC is applied through a fuse, filtering, a common-mode choke, and a full-wave bridge rectifier, where it is converted to 172 VDC. The voltage is applied to the TOP386EG switcher that applies its voltage to the transformer. On the output side of the transformer, AC is then rectified through the MBR2560CT as well as applied to the logic monitoring the voltages and charge levels. The LTV-817B optocoupler provides feedback that controls the drive of the TOP386EG.

The voltage levels were taken with no load. In other words, the charger was not charging a battery.

The board has a considerable amount of RTV applied and the component side is conformal coated.

“I really like your soldering”, said no one, ever! So feel free to ridicule my soldering. In my defense, the pictures were taken prior to clean up of the board. If nothing else, the pictures will provide comedic relief. Honestly, looking at this pictures makes me want to break out Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. Trust me, the board was cleaned up and re-conformal coated.

== Needed Tools ==
* 3mm or 7/64ths hex head driver
* Multimeter. Knowing how the diode function differs from the resistance function of the meter is helpful.

== Disassembly==
With a flat-blade screwdriver, remove the rubber feet. This reveals 3mm/7-64th hex head screws. Remove them. The bottom should be able to to be separated from the unit to reveal the printed circuit board (PCB). The PCB is pressure fit in to the house and should be able to be removed.

== Troubleshooting ==
If the input fuse has blown, the problem is probably in the input side. Perhaps the 180 uF/250V capacitor shorted. Perhaps the inductor, bridge rectifier diode pack shorted.

<big>**WARNING**</big>

120 VAC and up to 175 volts DC are present on the input side of the charger circuit. Under a bad set of circumstances, this could be lethal.
*Proceed at your own risk!*

If you're comfortable proceeding, then plug in to AC power. With the multimeter, look for the DC voltages indicated in the pictures.

== Autopsy ==
Judging by the failed components, here is a guess as how my charger failed:

My house did not take a direct hit from the lightning bolt. If so, I’d have visible damage and many more items would have been destroyed. The charger was in the garage. My guess is the plasma field of the lightning caused the MBR2560CT to internally short. This caused maximum drive current to be sourced by the TOP368EG on the input side. Diode US1M on the right side of the picture was replaced as a part of the troubleshooting effort, but was probably good. The 3.15 amp input fuse did not blow and is still functioning.
Perhaps yours failed in a similar manner.

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 1.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 underside]]

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 2.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Topside]]

All of the parts are available from Mouser https://www.mouser.com/

Kobalt KRC 40-06

2023-08-02T03:25:46Z

Shawnerz: /* Troubleshooting */

== Background ==
A lightning bolt hit a pole near my house and I lost several electronic items. One of them was my Kobalt KRC 40-06 that recharges the battery for my Kobalt (Lowes) string trimmer and leaf blower. Rather than throw it in the landfill and buy another, I decided to repair it and return it to action. It was easier said than done, but I was successful.
The circuits are not too complex. The broad-stroke overview of the circuit is 120VAC is applied through a fuse, filtering, a common-mode choke, and a full-wave bridge rectifier, where it is converted to 172 VDC. The voltage is applied to the TOP386EG switcher that applies its voltage to the transformer. On the output side of the transformer, AC is then rectified through the MBR2560CT as well as applied to the logic monitoring the voltages and charge levels. The LTV-817B optocoupler provides feedback that controls the drive of the TOP386EG.

The voltage levels were taken with no load. In other words, the charger was not charging a battery.

The board has a considerable amount of RTV applied and the component side is conformal coated.

“I really like your soldering”, said no one, ever! So feel free to ridicule my soldering. In my defense, the pictures were taken prior to clean up of the board. If nothing else, the pictures will provide comedic relief. Honestly, looking at this pictures makes me want to break out Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. Trust me, the board was cleaned up and re-conformal coated.

== Needed Tools ==
3mm or 7/64ths hex head driver
Multimeter. Knowing how the diode function differs from the resistance function of the meter is helpful.

== Disassembly==
With a flat-blade screwdriver, remove the rubber feet. This reveals 3mm/7-64th hex head screws. Remove them. The bottom should be able to to be separated from the unit to reveal the printed circuit board (PCB). The PCB is pressure fit in to the house and should be able to be removed.

== Troubleshooting ==
If the input fuse has blown, the problem is probably in the input side. Perhaps the 180 uF/250V capacitor shorted. Perhaps the inductor, bridge rectifier diode pack shorted.

<big>**WARNING**</big>

120 VAC and up to 175 volts DC are present on the input side of the charger circuit. Under a bad set of circumstances, this could be lethal.
*Proceed at your own risk!*

If you're comfortable proceeding, then plug in to AC power. With the multimeter, look for the DC voltages indicated in the pictures.

== Autopsy ==
Judging by the failed components, here is a guess as how my charger failed:

My house did not take a direct hit from the lightning bolt. If so, I’d have visible damage and many more items would have been destroyed. The charger was in the garage. My guess is the plasma field of the lightning caused the MBR2560CT to internally short. This caused maximum drive current to be sourced by the TOP368EG on the input side. Diode US1M on the right side of the picture was replaced as a part of the troubleshooting effort, but was probably good. The 3.15 amp input fuse did not blow and is still functioning.
Perhaps yours failed in a similar manner.

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 1.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 underside]]

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 2.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Topside]]

All of the parts are available from Mouser https://www.mouser.com/

Kobalt KRC 40-06

2023-08-02T03:21:46Z

Shawnerz:

== Background ==
A lightning bolt hit a pole near my house and I lost several electronic items. One of them was my Kobalt KRC 40-06 that recharges the battery for my Kobalt (Lowes) string trimmer and leaf blower. Rather than throw it in the landfill and buy another, I decided to repair it and return it to action. It was easier said than done, but I was successful.
The circuits are not too complex. The broad-stroke overview of the circuit is 120VAC is applied through a fuse, filtering, a common-mode choke, and a full-wave bridge rectifier, where it is converted to 172 VDC. The voltage is applied to the TOP386EG switcher that applies its voltage to the transformer. On the output side of the transformer, AC is then rectified through the MBR2560CT as well as applied to the logic monitoring the voltages and charge levels. The LTV-817B optocoupler provides feedback that controls the drive of the TOP386EG.

The voltage levels were taken with no load. In other words, the charger was not charging a battery.

The board has a considerable amount of RTV applied and the component side is conformal coated.

“I really like your soldering”, said no one, ever! So feel free to ridicule my soldering. In my defense, the pictures were taken prior to clean up of the board. If nothing else, the pictures will provide comedic relief. Honestly, looking at this pictures makes me want to break out Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. Trust me, the board was cleaned up and re-conformal coated.

== Needed Tools ==
3mm or 7/64ths hex head driver
Multimeter. Knowing how the diode function differs from the resistance function of the meter is helpful.

== Disassembly==
With a flat-blade screwdriver, remove the rubber feet. This reveals 3mm/7-64th hex head screws. Remove them. The bottom should be able to to be separated from the unit to reveal the printed circuit board (PCB). The PCB is pressure fit in to the house and should be able to be removed.

== Troubleshooting ==
If the input fuse has blown, the problem is probably in the input side. Perhaps the 180 uF/250V capacitor shorted. Perhaps the inductor, bridge rectifier diode pack shorted.
<big>**Caution**</big>
120 VAC and up to 175 volts DC are present on the input side of the charger circuit.

If you're comfortable proceeding, then plug in to AC power. With the multimeter, look for the DC voltages indicated in the pictures.

== Autopsy ==
Judging by the failed components, here is a guess as how my charger failed:

My house did not take a direct hit from the lightning bolt. If so, I’d have visible damage and many more items would have been destroyed. The charger was in the garage. My guess is the plasma field of the lightning caused the MBR2560CT to internally short. This caused maximum drive current to be sourced by the TOP368EG on the input side. Diode US1M on the right side of the picture was replaced as a part of the troubleshooting effort, but was probably good. The 3.15 amp input fuse did not blow and is still functioning.
Perhaps yours failed in a similar manner.

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 1.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 underside]]

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 2.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Topside]]

All of the parts are available from Mouser https://www.mouser.com/

Kobalt KRC 40-06

2023-08-02T02:13:03Z

Shawnerz: Added text

A lightning bolt hit a pole near my house and I lost several electronic items. One of them was my Kobalt KRC 40-06 that recharges the battery for my Kobalt (Lowes) string trimmer and leaf blower. Rather than throw it in the landfill and buy another, I decided to repair it and return it to action. It was easier said than done, but I was successful.
The circuits are not too complex. The broad-stroke overview of the circuit is 120VAC is applied through a fuse, filtering, a common-mode choke, and a full-wave bridge rectifier, where it is converted to 172 VDC. The voltage is applied to the TOP386EG switcher that applies its voltage to the transformer. On the output side of the transformer, AC is then rectified through the MBR2560CT as well as applied to the logic monitoring the voltages and charge levels. The LTV-817B optocoupler provides feedback that controls the drive of the TOP386EG.

The voltage levels were taken with no load. In other words, the charger was not charging a battery.

The board has a considerable amount of RTV applied and the component side is conformal coated.

“I really like your soldering”, said no one, ever! So feel free to ridicule my soldering. In my defense, the pictures were taken prior to clean up of the board. If nothing else, the pictures will provide comedic relief. Honestly, looking at this pictures makes me want to break out Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. Trust me, the board was cleaned up and re-conformal coated.

A multimeter is all that is needed to troubleshoot this charger. Knowing how the diode function differs from the resistance function of the meter is helpful.

Disassembly: With a flat-blade screwdriver, remove the rubber feet. This reveals 3mm/7-64th hex head screws. Remove them. The bottom should be able to to be separated from the unit to reveal the printed circuit board (PCB). The PCB is pressure fit in to the house and should be able to be removed.

Troubleshooting: Look for the DC voltages.

Autopsy: Judging by the failed components, here is a guess as how my charger failed:

My house did not take a direct hit from the lightning bolt. If so, I’d have visible damage and many more items would have been destroyed. The charger was in the garage. My guess is the plasma field of the lightning caused the MBR2560CT to internally short. This caused maximum drive current to be sourced by the TOP368EG on the input side. Diode US1M on the right side of the picture was replaced as a part of the troubleshooting effort, but was probably good. The 3.15 amp input fuse did not blow and is still functioning.
[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 1.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 underside]]

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 2.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Topside]]

All of the parts are available from Mouser https://www.mouser.com/

Kobalt KRC 40-06

2023-08-02T02:12:01Z

Shawnerz: Kobalt KRC 40-06

A lightning bolt hit a pole near my house and I lost several electronic items. One of them was my Kobalt KRC 40-06 that recharges the battery for my Kobalt (Lowes) string trimmer and leaf blower. Rather than throw it in the landfill and buy another, I decided to repair it and return it to action. It was easier said than done, but I was successful.
The circuits are not too complex. The broad-stroke overview of the circuit is 120VAC is applied through a fuse, filtering, a common-mode choke, and a full-wave bridge rectifier, where it is converted to 172 VDC. The voltage is applied to the TOP386EG switcher that applies its voltage to the transformer. On the output side of the transformer, AC is then rectified through the MBR2560CT as well as applied to the logic monitoring the voltages and charge levels. The LTV-817B optocoupler provides feedback that controls the drive of the TOP386EG.

The voltage levels were taken with no load. In other words, the charger was not charging a battery.

The board has a considerable amount of RTV applied and the component side is conformal coated.

“I really like your soldering”, said no one, ever! So feel free to ridicule my soldering. In my defense, the pictures were taken prior to clean up of the board. If nothing else, the pictures will provide comedic relief. Honestly, looking at this pictures makes me want to break out Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol. Trust me, the board was cleaned up and re-conformal coated.

A multimeter is all that is needed to troubleshoot this charger. Knowing how the diode function differs from the resistance function of the meter is helpful.

Disassembly: With a flat-blade screwdriver, remove the rubber feet. This reveals 3mm/7-64th hex head screws. Remove them. The bottom should be able to to be separated from the unit to reveal the printed circuit board (PCB). The PCB is pressure fit in to the house and should be able to be removed.

Troubleshooting: Look for the DC voltages. Judging by the failed components, here is a guess as how my charger failed:

My house did not take a direct hit from the lightning bolt. If so, I’d have visible damage and many more items would have been destroyed. The charger was in the garage. My guess is the plasma field of the lightning caused the MBR2560CT to internally short. This caused maximum drive current to be sourced by the TOP368EG on the input side. Diode US1M on the right side of the picture was replaced as a part of the troubleshooting effort, but was probably good. The 3.15 amp input fuse did not blow and is still functioning.
[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 1.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 underside]]

[[File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 2.jpg|thumb|Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Topside]]

All of the parts are available from Mouser https://www.mouser.com/

File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 2.jpg

2023-08-02T02:08:27Z

Shawnerz: Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Topside

== Summary ==
Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 Topside

File:Kobalt LI Ion Charger 1.jpg

2023-08-02T02:07:36Z

Shawnerz: Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 underside

== Summary ==
Kobalt Charger KRC 40-06 underside

Home

2023-08-01T23:28:42Z

Shawnerz: Added 'Ion'

[[File:Neato XV-11 Disassembled.jpg|thumb|alt=|Neato XV-11 disassembled on the workbench, preparing to reverse engineer LIDAR communication protocol.]]
Cameras, Power/Light Controllers, HVAC Controllers, Electronic Door Locks, Appliances, Robotic Vacuums and other items found in your home.
==Device Index==
[[Neato XV-11]] - Robotic vacuum which included the first low cost [[LIDAR]].

Kobalt KRC 40-06 - 40 volt Lithium Ion Battery Charger

Home

2023-08-01T23:26:23Z

Shawnerz: First part of change. Getting back in to the swing of Wiki editing.