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Add timer switch info and fix oopsies on pinouts that dont match
* <s>Document the theory of operation and create a rough block diagram for functionality.</s> Shown in the manual
* Document any theories, issues that arise and their fixes, as well as things to watch out for
* Potentially design Design a new tone decoder daughterboard using more common components(LM567)* Recreate timer PCB to allow for additional signals to be added to models without extra timers* Design and add a small audio amplifier circuit and speaker to listen to the recevier audio feed locally(LCRx only)
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====DIP Switch Config====
 
 
----
=====SW1 (Total Time)=====
The stock DIP switch config for the steady 3 min cycle timer is, from left to right (Up = ON): up, down, up, down, down, up, down, up. This sets pins 1, 3, 6 and 8 high, and 2,4,5,and 7 low (the DIP switch numbers are backwards in reference to the IC pins). This equates to a RC time constant of 165.
According to the manual, SW1 controls the total time that the function is activated with a +/- 10% margin. The switches add together in a binary sequence when closed (up)
Pin 13 of the IC is the RC input which is fed by a {||+ <U>'''SW1 Values (position from left to right)'''</U>|<div style="display: flex;"> <div> {| class="wikitable" style="" |- !Position !Time value |- |'''1''' |128 sec. |- |'''2''' |64 sec. |- |'''3''' |32 sec. |- |'''4''' |16 sec. |- |'''5''' |8 sec. |- |'''6''' |4 sec.1MOhm resistor and a 1uF 35v tantalum capacitor |- |'''7''' |2 sec. |- |'''8''' |1 sec. Cross referencing those values |} </div></div>|}  An example shown in the datasheet chartmanual is switches 1, 3, 4, and 6 closed, we get providing a RC timebase run time of ~1Hz, though measuring via scope it shows the period to be 03 minutes (180s).66Hz   ----=====SW2 & SW3 (1.5secOn/Off time during cycle exactly)===== On CD cycle/fire timers, the addition of ommitted components and SW2/SW3 allows for controlling the time spent on and off during the total cycle time defined by SW1. The confusing part is that These switches add up in a binary sequence when open (down) with these figures, we get a +/- 10% margin.  *SW2 controls the time spent ON during a cycle *SW3 controls the time spent OFF during a cycle  {||+ <U>'''SW2/3 Values (position from left to right)'''</U>|<div style="display: flex;"> <div> {| class="wikitable" style="" |- !Position !Time value |- |'''1''' |1 sec. |- |'''2''' |2 sec. |- |'''3''' |4 sec. |- |'''4''' |8 sec. |} </div></div>|}  ----  ====Converting a Steady Timer to a CD Cycle Timer==== With a bit of ~110 secondspatience and the missing components detailed in the manual, one could theoretically turn a CD steady timer into a CD Cycle/Fire timer. Do note however that if you do so, not 180you must cut or desolder the jumper in the W1 position. Still not super clear how this worksI am curious if one may replace that jumper with a small switch to allow for choosing between steady and attack/fire signals by bypassing the extra components.
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At low values it seems to be pretty accurate (eg. 5 sec), but with my test of "180s" (8, 6, 5 and 4 high) yielded approximately 3m18s (almost 200s). Timing the stock setting gets 2m57s, or 177s.This is consistent with the stated +/- 10% margin. 
'''U2''' - Motorola MC14011BCP<ref>https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/308/1/MC14001B_D-2315187.pdf</ref> (B-Series CMOS Quad 2−Input NAND Gate)
'''U3''' - NMotorola MC1455P1<ref>https:/A /www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/mc1455-d.pdf</ref> (Populated on other boards555 Timer)[ONLY PRESENT ON CD CYCLE/FIRE MODELS]
'''U4''' - Maxim ICM7240IPE<ref>https://www.analog.com/media/jp/technical-documentation/data-sheets/1360.pdf</ref> (Programmable Timer/Counter IC)
|-
|'''P1-4'''
|??? Cancel "A" (Goes to STOP terminal on terminal block as well as P2-4 on decoder module B?from manual)
|-
|'''P1-5'''
!Function
|-
|'''P1P2-1'''
|GND
|-
|'''P1P2-2''' |N/C on Main BoardDecoder Cancel (from manual)
|-
|'''P1P2-3''' |Cancel "B" (Coupled to GND via C44)
|-
|'''P1P2-4''' |Cancel "C" (N/C on Main Board)
|-
|'''P1P2-5'''
|N/C on Main Board
|}
{|
|+ <U>'''LCRx Relay Driver Board Pinout'''</U>
|<div style="display: flex;">
<div>
!Function
|-
|'''P1P2-1'''
|GND
|-
|'''P1P2-2''' |Relay #1 Coil (E9 on I/O header)
|-
|'''P1P2-3''' |Relay #1 Coil (E10 on I/O header)
|-
|'''P1P2-4''' |N/C on Main BoardRelay #2 Coil (Optional in SC series, but traces route to it on driver boardnot used at all in LCRx.)
|-
|'''P1P2-5''' |N/C on Main BoardRelay #2 Coil (Optional in SC series, but traces route to it on driver boardnot used at all in LCRx.)
|}
</div>
!Function
|-
|'''P1P2-1'''
|GND
|-
|'''P1P2-2'''
|5th tone filter (J2)
|-
|'''P1P2-3'''
|6th tone filter (J1)
|-
|'''P1P2-4'''
|N/C
|-
|'''P1P2-5'''
|N/C
|}
!Function
|-
|'''P1P2-1'''
|GND
|-
|'''P1P2-2'''
|N/C
|-
|'''P1P2-3'''
|Transformer AC in
|-
|'''P1P2-4'''
|N/C
|-
|'''P1P2-5'''
|Transformer AC in
|}
*Due to the XR2211A IC being obsolete and quite hard to source nowadays, I may try to design my own tone decoder board using the LM567 IC which is still available in SMD form factors. The LM567 also outputs a logic low when signal is detected, but the design will have to incorperate a LDO 5v regulator to power the chip from the 12v the cards get.
*I have not adjusted any of the filter components on the receiver circuit yet, but I did run an experiment by leaving the device plugged in with the antenna attached inside my house while sending the activation signal from a few dense suburban blocks away. The board operated perfectly with 5W from my Anytone 878, turning on and off.
 
*While the tone filters are labled J1 thru J6 on the PCB, the actual numbering is reversed, tone filter 1 is at the top and 6 is at the bottom. Despite that, my unit (and I suspect others that were reconfigured by a third party) may not start at slot 1. My unit has slots 6, 5, and 4 occupied with the corresponding wiring on the programming board. The nameplate implies slots 1, 2, and 3 however. Overall it doesn't ''really'' matter if things aren't in numerical order, but it sure as hell makes things confusing...
*On the maxon data radio DB-15 connector, you can solder a normal speaker to pin
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